Survival Foraging: Fireweed

FIREWEED

Epilobium Angustifolium

 

Other Names: River Beauty, Wild Asparagus, Blooming Sally

 

Habitat: Varies with specific species, but can be found in burned and logged areas as well as meadows and gravel bars.  Can be found from Northern Alaska to the Yukon, Pacific Northwest and California.

 

Description:(Fireweed) Grows up to 8 feet high, Flowers are 4 petaled, bright and commonly magenta, but sometimes purple or white.  Lower flowers mature earlier and from long pods after blooming.  Leaves are long and narrow with smooth edges, and pale underneath.  When mature the pods split open and release a wooly fluff that carries the seed.

(River Beauty) Grows from 4-16 inches in height.  Flowers are larger and more colorful than Fireweed.  Leaves are long narrow and grayish green in color.  Stems are sometimes commonly branched.


Edible Uses:

 

Early Spring: Shoots

Late Spring: Leaves (best before flowering begins),

Summer: Buds and Flowers

Fall: “Down” from matured pods and the rootstalks

  • The Spring Fireweed young stalks are high in Vitamin C and A.  The stalks are edible raw, but can be steamed or stir fried.  The soil conditions where foraged will affect flavor and often it is found spring shoots can be mild to somewhat bitter depending on area foraged.  Bitter stalks can be pickled or blended with milder greens in pies or casseroles to control the bitterness.
  • Shoots can also be simmered in stews or prepared like asparagus.  One recommendation is to pack shoots in cooking oil and freeze them for winter use.  River Beauty shoots are said to be superior to fireweed for potherb us.
  •  Young Leaves of both species are good mixed with other greens in salads ro vegetable side dishes.  The buds (unopened) can be used in the same way.  Raw Roots are popular food with Northern Eskimo’s.
  • In the Summer stems can be split down the middle into halves and  pulled through teeth to extract the edible parts of the stem.  Fireweed leaf tea can be made into a pleasant drink, and is slightly sweet in flavor.  The laxative nature of the tea dictates that this be used in moderation.  Russian peasant call this tea “Kaporie”.  You can bend the tea with dried berries or mint leaves.

 

OTHER USES:

  • As stated above, the laxative nature of the tea can be used to relieve constipation, Herbal infusions are also recommended for spring tonics and to help settle upset stomachs.
  • A Herbal Decoction can be made by boiling the whole herb and has been used as an Anit-Spasmodic treatment for whooping cough and asthma.  Traditional use involves making the Herbal Decoction and sipping in wineglass amounts until spasms pass.
  • Fireweed leaves and flowers can be steeped in Oils and is said to be a good external treatment for piles.
  • Dry Powdered roots blended with Vaseline or other petroleum Jelly has been used to sooth infected insect bits, and abrasions.  The Fresh Roots are also said to draw out Boils

  • The wooly fluff from mature pods was used by Canadian explorers as a Tinder for starting fires
  • Common in Kamchatka (The large peninsula in Eastern Siberia Russia), Fireweed was made into an ale.   The Pith (The inner juicy ‘meat’) was boiled along with Cow Parsnip Stems, and Hallucinogenic Fly Agaric (Agaracus Muscarius) and this resulted in a “Stupefying Ale”
  • Natives of Puget sound wove fireweed down with wool of mountain goats to make blankets.
  • Fireweed Flowers were rubbed on mittens and rawhide to make them water resistant
  • Inner Pith was dried, powered and rubbed on hands and face in winter to prevent chapping of the skin
  • The String Fibers left in teeth after extracting pith was woven to create fish nets.

 

 


Create PDF    Send article as PDF   

Survival Foraging: Field Mint

FIELD MINT

Mentha arvensis

 

OTHER NAMES: Wild mint, pole mint, brook mint, indian mint, Canada mint

 

HABITAT: Can be found in fields, moist areas, banks of streams and lakes.  The Field Mint ranges from Central Alaska and the Yukon to California.

 

DESCRIPTION:  Can grow up to 24 inches, opposite leaves which usually have fine hairs.  Plants smells minty when bruised, square stems which are usually hairy.  Stem may be  simple or branched.  When flowering will have tight clusters of lilac like flowers growing where the leaves and stems intersect.

 

EDIBLE USES:

HARVEST CALENDAR:

Late Spring to Early Summer: The above ground portion.  Clip the mint to a height of 4-6 inches a few times during the season, this provides continuous supply of young, supple, tender growth.


The young mint leaves are a nutritious additive to summer salads and have high content of vitamins A, C and K as well as Iron, calcium and manganese.

Add to soups, omelettes or whatever you want to have a ‘minty’ fresh flavor.  Steam the mint with new potatoes, baby carrots or peas for a fresh flavor.  Mint Jelly is wonderful on poultry, lamb or pork as well as wild game that may have a “gamey taste”.

You can steep the leaves for a refreshing hot or iced tea, or you can place a fresh sprig of mint in beverages or meat dishes as a garnish.

You can also line cake tines with the mint leaves instead of grease, due to the oils in the plant, this works well with light cakes and adds a mint flavor to the final product.

 

MEDICINAL USES:

Mint is recommended as an appetite stimulant and digestive aid.  You can try sipping a small glass of mint flavored wine or tea after a big dinner to spur digestive juices to get to work.

Mint is also used for upset stomachs, nausea and morning sickness and mint-elder flower tea is recommended for crampy or delayed menstruation.

You can apply the mint as a herbal compress, and is said to relieve headaches and other pains.

Inhaling mint is a folk remedy substitute for smelling salts.

Simmer mint in a pan of water and inhale for blocked sinuses

Add leaves to herbal salves for itchy skin conditions.

Mint Essential oils can be diluted in a cup of water to relieve gas and mint juice can be used to sooth earaches.

 

OTHER USES:

Mint can be used for cosmetic uses as well.  Add to herbal baths to soothe and soften skin and to foot baths to sooth aching feet or calluses.

Mint is useful in facial steams and masks for dry skins.

Mint Vinegar, diluted with water is a good hair rinse for dandruff.

PURE mint oil can be added to shampoos, massage oils, herbal asalves, soaps as well as foods and liquors.  The oil can be made through distillation, but is very intensive as it takes 300 pounds of mint to yield on pound of oil.

 

RECIPE FOR MINT MASK FOR DRY SKIN:

1/4 cup fresh mint

1/2 avocado

2 tb wheat germ oil

2 tb liquid lecithin

1 dropper vitamin E

1 cup mint tea

 

Place all ingredients in a blender.  Smooth on clean face and throat area, leave on for 15 minutes and wash with mint tea.

 

 

CAUTION: Large amounts of mint should be avoided by pregnant women as it has been known to cause miscarriages

 

 

 

 

 

 


PDF Creator    Send article as PDF   

Survival Foraging: Puffballs

PUFFBALLS

Lycoperdon Species

Calvatia Species

 

OTHER NAMES: Devils Snuffbox, Chicken of the Woods

 

HABITAT: Puffballs flourish in areas such as lawns, meadows, tundra and roadsides.  Puffballs can be found from Alaska to California, and many North American Hard and Softwood Forest’s. There was even a Calvatia species discovered in Brazil in 2008

 

DESCRIPTION: Puffballs vary in size from the size of marbles to basketballs.  THe Lycoperdon sp. are smaller, but more abundant.  Lycoperdon is round and white before the spores develop and turn brown as they begin to ‘fruit’ and are ready to release the spores.  Calvatia sp. can be larger such as the C. Gigantea specieas and can grow to 10 inches in diameter.  They have numerous ‘cracks’ that release the spores.  Calvatia sp. are round to pear shaped and lack a true stem, but some have a “stalk-like” base that varies from the minute to substantial.  The fruiting bodies of the Calvatia may be smooth or with wartlike growths.  When both species ‘fruit’, they release a cloud of spores when stepped on.

 

EDIBLE USES:

 

HARVESTING:

LATE SUMMER – EARLY FALL

Slice open EACH puffball in half before eating to make certain it is solid white throughout the mushroom

SLICED LYCOPERDON PERLATUM

 

SLICED CALVATIA CYATHIFORMIS


Large puffballs can be a very delicious if you slice them and cook them like eggplant Parmesan.  You can also try them filled with stuffing, wrapped in bacon and cooked in a covered pot.  The smaller puffballs can be sauteed in butter, garlic and soy sauce and served on toast points.

You can basically use these just like you would any mushrooms you buy in the store.   They can be added to sparser meals to help fill the belly and give the meal more variety.

This is an unverified source, but the nutritional content according to a study done in Turkey found that Lycoperdon perlatum contained

  • 42 g carbohydrates
  • 10.6 g Fat
  • 44.9 g Protein
  • 5.5 mg Iron
  • .6 mg Manganese
  • .5 g Zinc

 

MEDICINAL USES:

Puffballs have been traditionaly bound to wounds to stop bleeding, spores have been inhaled for a folk remedy for nosebleeds.

 

CAUTION

The spores have been known to cause allergic reactions in some people and severely irritate the bronchial passages, so caution must be used when considering traditional uses.

As with any foraging for new species be very careful in the collection.  For you first time always collect the “unknowns” and keep them in separate containers from the “known” edibles, so if they turn out to be inedible they don’t spoil the rest.  This is because Spores form one mushroom that may be toxic may spoil the rest if they come in contact.  a rule of thumb is to cut mushroom stems one inch form the ground to make sure they are free of dirt.

For positive identification make mushroom spore prints for future reference.  Discard the step and place the mushroom cap stem side down on paper, cover this with a glass bowl or large container and let it sit overnight.  The paper, if possible, should be half dark half-light so that the spores show up regardless of color.  Spores will form an identifying print, like a finger, with their color and shape, which will be the key identifiers.

Dont eat a large portion when consuming new wild mushrooms for the first time.  Eat no more than a tablespoon of the cooked fungus, wait 36 hours, and if you don’t get sick its ok.  if you do get sick or have an allergic reaction it will, or should be less, than if you ate a heaping portion, and this way you can get the learning curve without the death or severe illness! (this is why you should forage in your area now! not when things get bad and medical attention is less or non-existent).

As with all Foraging, consult your local knowledge base and BE CAREFUL!

 

 

 

 


PDF Printer    Send article as PDF   

Survival Foraging: Club Moss

CLUB MOSS

Lycopodium Species

Other Names: Stiff Club Moss, Vegetable Sulfur, Wolfs Claw

Habitat: Coniferous woods, rocky place.  Found from Northern Alaska to the Yukon, California, Washington, Oregon

Description:Depending on species a pine tree like appearance and stiff stalks (consult local fauna information to make sure you have correct species for medicinal uses)

 

Edible Uses: None

NOTE OF CAUTION!!

Not all species of Club Moss can be used for these medicinal uses, make sure EXACT species are used and ALWAYS consult with your local fauna book.  The L. Selago species found in Alaska, Yukon and Oregon is a toxic species, while the L. annotinum that is found in Alaska, Yukon, B.C. and Oregon is not!

 

MEDICINAL USES:

 

HARVEST CALENDAR:

SUMMER: Spore capsules and evergreen branches.

Club moss can be harvested year round depending on snow covering.


The reproductive capsule on the tops of

L. Clavatum (Below)

as well as L. complanatum (Shown Below)

These two yield a yellow powder call “Vegetable Sulfur” or “Vegetable Brimstone” which can be sprinkled on the skin to treat

  • Sores
  • Ecsema
  • Herpes
  • Supperating skin irritations
  • Diaper rash (for its soothing and healing)

The powder is also very water resistant and if you coat your hand with it and submerge it in water you can almost stay completely dry!

The powder is also friction reducing and is used for the same things as other body powders, such as bed sores.

ANOTHER WARNING!

The powder is also highly flammable and was used for theatrical explosives and night photography (in the old days) so DONT LET IT GET NEAR FLAME

 

Other European Herbalists have recommended it for leg cramps, and it is to be stuffed in pillows to be used and as application for aching areas such as legs or feet.

 

The Recipe for “Dads Pillow” is as follows

  • 2 Cups dried club moss greens
  • 2 cups dried wormwood leaves and flowers
  • 1 cup dried pineapple weed flowers and greens
  • 1 old pillowcase

Place herbs in pillowcase, prop tired or cramped feet on pillow or stool, sit back and enjoy.  Elevate the feet on the pillow nightly for 30 minutes.

 

Dena’ina Natives say that resting your head on the pillow is a remedy for headaches, and vivid dreams have been reported.  The Dena’ina also use a tea made from the boiled plant for an eyewash.

 

L. Clavatum and L. Complanatum ONLY are a traditional internal remedy for cirrhosis of the Liver, urinary and reproductive disorders as well as gout and rheumatism.

One recommendation is to take 1 teaspoon chopped club moss infused in one cup of boiling water and drink before the morning meal.

Montagnais Natives used club moss with hemlock tree bark for fever reducing tea.

Potawatomi and Blackfoot Natives dusted wounds with powder and would inhale it for nosebleeds.

 

LAST WARNING!

Once again make sure you use proper identification!

L. Selago should NOT be used internally.  It contains an alkaloid that can cause mouth pain, diarrhea and vomitting.

CHECK CHECK CHECK!

 


Free PDF    Send article as PDF   

Survival Footwear: Moose Hock, Grass Socks and more

(NO ONE WANTS FROSTBITE!)

 

In a survival situation whether this is a crashed airplane, lost on hunt or a collapse scenario where normal items become scare, inexpensive or both knowing how to construct your own arctic survival footwear could be the difference between life and death, comfort or pure agony!

I was reading this old book called “The Arctic Survival Guide” written by Alan Innes-Taylor for the Scandinavian Airline System in 1957, it has alot of good info in it, and I believe most of it is the same info that is in some of the old US Air Force Arctic Survival Manuals from the same period.

MOOSE HOCK SHOES

One way to get a nice pair of shoes is to use a method of footwear as old as the caveman.

For this you can use the hock skin of caribou, moose, elk or any large game animal.

  • You will want to cut Areas A & C all the way around and deep.
  • Separate from the Leg and pull it off over the hoof, you now basically have a L shaped piece of hide.
  • In a less immediate survival situation you could clean and tan the hide, for long term use.  In a survival situation, try to scrap the loose bits of meat off as best you can, but this is about survival and getting home, so a little left on there is ok, just not optimal.
  • At part C (the bottom end) sew that up with whatever you have (This is why a paracord belt would be great! the fibers from a piece of paracord would work perfect!)
  • Then poke holes with the bottle opener/leather punch (if you have  a Leatherman) or just holes from a knife will work fine to create holes for laces.
  • Then take the laces from the destroyed boots if possible or paracord (see another use, Im not kidding about how useful that stuff is buy SPOOLS!)

You know have a decent footwear.  Dont discard this as “gross” or to “primitive living”, try walking on a nice day through the woods with just socks, now imagine that in Arctic, cold weather survival situation!

Since the Moose provides you with 4 hocks, you can make two pairs of these shoes, and be able to change them out whenever you need to, definitely take advantage of the material to make a second pair.

Note:  In the Book “ARTIC MANUAL” which was written by  Vilhjalmur Stefansson for the U.S. Army Air Corps in 1944,  is an excellent resource for many different arctic survival needs, recommends caribou for homestead/primitive living boots.

“The sole, shoepac type as always, is of August or September bull Caribou, and form the back skin.  October hides are sometimes used but as said, the skins get thinner as the season advances…August or early September bootsole is so durable that on snow exclusively, or on snow and grassland, one pair of soles will carry you a thousand miles at least.”

Pretty neat stuff right?

Your Moose hock shoes will work fine, but what they lack is insulation, this leads me to the next thing to consider…


 

GRASS LINING/INSOLES

Simple grass has been used by northern natives and hard living European hunters/trappers, etc for a long time to help augment the insulating factor of your socks, or to preserve your socks as well.

The biggest killer in a arctic environment is not the cold as much as it is inaction or getting wet.

When you walk around for awhile you start to perspire (sweat) For a quick walk in the woods, this is ok, but in a true survival situation you will want to slow your pace enough to keep you warm and conserve energy as well as to control your perspiration.  If you have good insulating boots and socks your feet will perspire, making your socks wet and when you stop that wetness will turn ice cold.

Grass insoles are good for three things

  • Good dry grass will absorb the perspiration and your socks will be dryer
  • The Grass will add another layer of insulation to keep your feet warm (as you get colder your body will make sure the core stays warm and your extremities such as your hands and feet will get much cooler)
  • The grass can provide more cushion to your feet AND insulation if you are wearing improvised footwear like the moose hock shoes mentioned above.

How to make the insoles

  • You will want to take ANY tall grass that grows throughout the north.  Grasp large handful in both hands (the guide mentions a “sheaf” of grass, basically enough so both your hands, on on top of each other, arent touching) twist it in opposite directions.  take that bundle and fluff it up into oblong shapes so it is “fluffed up” like a nest (this is so there is air insulation in between the grass).
  • Make sure this oblong shape is “foot like” but wider than your actual foot and a inch thick, carefull put that into your shoe/boot.

GRASS LINING

If you have socks (hopefully a couple) use this to further your insulation.

  • Put your first sock on
  • Using the same method for the insoles put that in your second larger sock and roll it down so it is very short
  • Carefully put your foot in, and try to have overlap over the edges onto the top of your foot with grass.
  • Pack loose grass around the open space all the way up the sock, rolling it up as you go.

Now the picture shows parachute fabric as the outer layer, this is a military manual and is for pilots that have to bail out of their aircraft, so they would have this available.  This same method would work perfectly with the moose hock shoe, depending on the size of the moose and the room you have inside.

At night or long periods of rest take these out and dry them.  Discard them if possible in place of new grass if you can find it.

If you cant find dry grass, make a wooden “grate” and attempt to dry the grass on that, you could take rocks and put them in the fire to warm them and then place them under the grate to dry the grass or just set them near enough to dry but dont let them catch fire of course!

 

HUDSON BAY DUFFLE

Another form of insulation for boots or improvised footwear could be the “Hudson Bay Duffle”

The Hudson Bay Company had a trade with the Natives for insulated socks.  They would make triangular pieces of fabric from soft blankets and sell them for use inside of Moccasins.

All you need is some piece of cloth cut into a triangle as seen in the photo above

  • Edge 1 would go over the top of the foot
  • Edge 2 and 3 would be wrapped OVER the instep

The “completed” Duffle would look like the foot inside the photo.

This would then be eased into the moccasin and firmly lashed. DONE

This has a few advantages over socks

  1. Depending on material it could be washed and dried quickly
  2. Foot can be placed differently to help even out wear, and avoid holes that may form in the heel
  3. It can be made from any soft material, from jackets, to multiple shirts, blankets, etc.

You can definitely use this if you have an extra blanket in your pack that you can cut a piece from, then use Grass as an insole and then put inside the Moose Hock shoe.

 

I would definitely try to get your hands on these books if possible, check out local libraries or see if libraries in other areas would loan them to yours so you can check them out.  The links I provided are to the Amazon listings (and as my disclaimer says i get a small percentage of the sale if you buy them), but these are out of print and the links may no longer be working if you look at this weeks, months or years down the road.

 

 

 


Fax Online    Send article as PDF   

Survival Foraging: Goldenrod

GOLDENROD

Solidago species

Other Names: Woundwort, Blue mountain tea, Aaron’s rod

 

Habitat: Species of this plant can be found from Alaska to Canada to California.  They can be found in various areas from meadows to open woods to rocky soils.

 

Description:The Canadensis variety (Canadian Goldenrod) can reach heights from 1-5 feet with yellow flower clusters 3-5 inches across.

 

Edible Uses:  Leaves, Flowers and Seeds can be eaten

Spring:Leaves

Summer:Leaves and Flowers

Late Summer: Seeds


Golden rod is a potherb, and can be added to soups and stews, to thicken soups, seeds can be added. Without adding in the medicinal effects a pleasant tea can be made from steeping the flowers and/or leaves and sweeten it with a bit of honey.  Blossoms can be added to pancakes and fritter as well as bread and biscuit doughs.

 

Other Uses: Powdered leaves can be sprinkled on shaving cuts as a styptic agent.  For insect bites and scrapes, apply fresh (crushed or chewed) leaves to relieve the pain or bothersome itch.  To make an antiseptic wound wash, strain goldenrod tea and splash the area with it.  You can add leaves to Herbal Salves for saddle sores or slight abrasions.  Goldenrod is also known for its use for kidneys and is safe for young children, and you can make herbal tinctures from the fresh blossoms to preserve these qualities for later use.

It has been said to use 1 teaspoon of dry leaves with one tablespoon of honey 3 times a day for ulcers and Herbal tea made from Goldenrod has a balanced content of minerals and is used for tuberculosis patients.  Facial steams and herbal baths can be made from the blossoms.

During the Crusades, Goldenrod was carried into battles as a wound dressing, and the name ‘woundwort’ stuck!

Europeans have long used the goldenrod as a border plant for their gardens and fields.

 


PDF Creator    Send article as PDF   

Survival Foraging: Wooly Lousewort

WOOLY LOUSEWORT

(Photos by Gary Minish)

Pedicularis Kanei (P. lanata)

 

Other Names: Arctic Lousewort, Fernweed, Bumblebee Plant, Indian Warrior

 

Habitat: Northern Alaska and Yukon to British Columbia. Found in dry stony tundra and alpine slopes.  Other Pedicularis species are found throughout the Northwest from meadows to muskeg, all are considered edible.

 

Description:  Looks like a star like fern leaf base, with a thick wooly covering and when flowering resembles the fireweed.

 

Edible Uses: Shoots, Leaves, Flowers and Roots can all be eaten.

Late Spring: Shoots and Leaves

Summer: Flowers

Fall (or early Spring): Roots

Leaves and tender stems can be steamed for a short time and used as a potherb or added to soups, casseroles, roasts, etc.  The sweet blossoms of the flower are considered very sweet and the nectar can be sucked out or used as a garnish.  Natives collect the lousewort when the flowers appear and place them in a barrel, covered with water and ferment it like sauerkraut, which are then sometimes eaten with oil or sugar.  Roots can be dig up in early spring or fall and after scrubbing them can be boiled, stir fried or baked.  The roots can be candied like yams, or steamed like carrots.


Other Uses:This species is well-known for its sedative effects and it is recommended that you steep 1/2 to 1 teaspoons of the flowering stalk for young ones or up to 1 tablespoon for adults as a relaxant for skeletal muscles, the brain and quiets anxiety and tension.

 

CAUTION: Because of its sedative properties you should only use this in moderation, and potency varies with the species so start with half the dose and work your way up.  It is known to cause (when too much is used) to cause lethargy, issues with motor control and can cause a discomfort.

 

Im not a doctor so these are just suggestions!


PDF    Send article as PDF   

Survival Foraging: Beach Greens

Beach Greens

Honckenya peploides, Arenaria peploides

Other Names: Sea Chickweed, Seabeach sandwort, Sea purslane

 

Habitat:  Common along the coasts from The extreme northern Arctic waters to the Aleutian chain and south to the Oregon Coast.  On the East Coast it is found in Arctic Canada South to Virginia.

 

Description: Found in patches or bunches, 2-12 inches in height, small white flowers.

 

Edible Uses: Beach Greens are sometimes refered to as “Scurvy Grass” due to its high Vitamin C content and was eaten by sailors to ward off Scurvy.

Late Spring: Leaves and Shoots

Summer: Leaves (can be gathered until August)

Late Summer: Seeds

The plant thrives on sandy beaches, so you must clean well to remove gritty sand and particles (unless you need the roughage!).  You can add the young shoots and leaves to tossed salads or steam them for a short time (2-3 minutes) and then mix with garlic and butter.  You can use them in Asian stir-fry dishes or simmer them in soups as well as pickle them! They are a wonderful all around useful plant if you are near the coast.  Near Kotzebue Natives will ferment the cooked greens and add berries to the mixture, while others blend the greens and cabbage when making sauerkraut.

If you plan ahead you can collect the new spring greens, blanch for 1 minute and then freeze them, for year round use as well as a vitamin A and C supplement (They are high in both).  The seeds can be collected (however they are small and it is very time-consuming) and you can add them as garnish or to flour to extend your supplies.

 

 


PDF Download    Send article as PDF   

Survival Foraging: Plantain

Plantain

Plantago major L

 

Other Names: Soldier’s Herb, Rastail, Broadleaf, door-yard plantain, white-man’s foot common plantain.

 

Habitat: Common in gardens and lawns, where it is often not wanted.  Can also be found along roadsides, wastelands and fields.

 

Description: The common Plaintain grows to a maximum height of 10 inches, and has flat elliptical, dark green (dull) leaves, that can grow up to 8-9 inches.

 

Edible Uses:

Only the leaves are edible and are best when Very young.  The tender leaves can be chopped and eaten raw in salads. When used with a meal the leaves can be used in the exact same way as Spinach (steamed or boiled), and are great with soups and stews.  Be aware that the fibrous veins in the leaves can become tough and strings as the plant gets older, you can put the leaves through a sieve to remove them if it is a problem.  Another solution would be to just remove the older fibrous leaves before serving the meal, this way the nutrition has leached into the meal and you don’t get the stringy bits!

Other Uses:

Teas can be made by soaking a cup of the leaves in boiling water.  The Herbal tea is said to aid bladder issues as well as gastrointestinal ulcers.  You can also make an herbal poultice by crushing the leaves and applying them directly to cuts or scratches or use them as a wound dressing.  The poultice/dressing is said to provide relief from insect stings.  Another source has listed that chewing on the rootstock can temporarily relieve toothaches.

 


 


Create PDF    Send article as PDF   

Making Charcoal for Survival

Throughout the third world, people cant afford to go and buy kingsford to get charcoal for cooking, so they have to make their own.

There are many different ways,to make charcoal some more advanced and hi-tech, but this is the more primitive way and the one that is most easy to do under “dire” circumstances.

 

(Pioneerliving.net)

There are many uses for charcoal.

1. You can cook with it and it will burn better and hotter then wood.

2. You can use it to clean your water and make a water filter or to make sweet water. If your water is a little skunky boil water with 2 pieses of charcoal for about 15 min to remove the smell.

3. You can use it to help stop poisoning. For instance if you eat something by mistake that would kill you and their was nothing you could do to stop it, just take 2 teaspoon full’s and eat it three times a day. The poison will be absorbed into the charcoal and just may save your life.

4. Charcoal is one of the main parts of black powder as well as other things.

5. It also can be used as a top dressing on a wound to absorb infection.

6. Can be used to add Potassium to the soil and raze the ph levels as well.

7. Can be mixed with white ash for a cleaner and soaps.

This is just some things that charcoal is used for and is very important to your survival

 

THIRD WORLD METHOD

(From Dr. N. Sai Bhaskar Reddy)

 

The sticks should be placed inclined, creating a mound.  Here for demonstration sake, the partially charred sticks from a recent charcoal preparation are used. Usually the partially charred sticks will be very less say, 1% to 2% of the whole charcoal preparation mound. They can be reduced if proper monitoring is done during the charcoal preparation. For partially charred sticks, the time taken for charcoal preparation will be less. For any wood, the procedure is same.

A larger mound is created, we can create any size mound, I have seen mounds of 5 meters height too.

 

Mixing the earth and preparing the paddy straw for laying over the sticks mound. Here the earth and straw is made wet as this mound is smaller in size.

First stage coverup the mound with straw

 

Light the mound at the top, using easily straw / small sticks

 

 

Making holes at the bottom, by removing some part of the straw and the earth, these holes are important, for release of tar / moisture, etc.

Let it sit for a a few days to a few weeks, depends on if you have pre charred the wood or not, but a few weeks will ensure the best results

 

finished charcoal in gunny sacks

 

Another method I found on pioneerliving.net

 

HOW TO MAKE CHARCOAL IN THE WILDERNESS

1) Let Wood age (season) for 6 months (Hardwoods are better)

2) Cut wood evenly and place in a fire and keep turning it so that it burns evenly.

3) Burn until you can just poke a stick into it and or break a piece by striking it with a shovel.

4) Remove it from the fire and place it into the ground and cover it up until there is no smoke coming from it.

5) Let it remain there for about 2 weeks

6) Crush to size.

 

 


PDF Creator    Send article as PDF   

Switch to our mobile site