Product Review: No Rinse Shampoo

no rinse shampoo

I received an email from Cleanlife Products asking me to review their line of “No Rinse” products for keeping good hygiene while not in your home. These products are primarily advertised for those who camp and don’t want to tug along a solar shower or constantly haul buckets of water to their campsite. These also work well for the prepper community as they offer a alternative for keeping yourself clean in uncertain times.

I personally tried the shampoo and hopefully from the pictures you can tell the difference between the before and after (this isnt a professional photography job so will have to take my word for it!)

Before

NO RINSE SHAMPOO BEFORE

 

AFTER

NO RINSE SHAMPOO AFTER

 

I had purposefully not showered for 5 days and had been shoveling and scraping ice out of the driveway, off the deck etc throughout that whole week as we got hit with a huge snowstorm; my hair was sufficiently nasty from daily wear and sweating from working.  I would have gone 7 days but my wife gave me the hint that she wasn’t enjoying my new ‘look’!  I went by the simple guidelines given…

  • Apply NoRinse in my hair until it was saturated and worked it into a lather
  • The Lather brought the oil and dirt to the surface of the hair…
  • Towel Dry to remove the dirt and oil

That’s it, pretty simple, easy enough for this Former Marine to figure out!  If you actually have a REAALLLLY nasty head of hair you just repeat the process until the end result is to your liking.  One rinse was enough for me and my hair felt much less oily and actually quite “fluffy” and had a out of the shower feel to be honest.

The Shampoo runs about $7.98 for a bottle or $7.56 if you purchase a case of 24.

 

The NoRinse line also includes….

Body Wash


Bathing wipes

 

As well as Products for your Pets

 

I see this as a good product to have in your bug out Bag or just camping accessories as a short term use product and too expensive for say an emergency lasting months or years.  Having this in your BOB would work well to keep yourself clean and be a psychological help to those who are in a bad situation.  Like Ive mentioned many times never underestimate the need for small things like this, a board game, books, things that take your mind off the present situation for even a few minutes can be of immense help to someones state of mind.

Not to be sexist, but men out there, the women in your lives will appreciate this much more than you ever will and will probably help to build a lot of support and well…love for you if you thought enough ahead of time to take care of something that…in my experience women appreciate very much…clean hair.  Also they will probably appreciate you not smelling horrible as well!

 

Clean Life Products has a special page for those who are focusing on ‘Survival/Disaster Prep”  as well.

 

 


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Survival Foraging: Fireweed

FIREWEED

Epilobium Angustifolium

 

Other Names: River Beauty, Wild Asparagus, Blooming Sally

 

Habitat: Varies with specific species, but can be found in burned and logged areas as well as meadows and gravel bars.  Can be found from Northern Alaska to the Yukon, Pacific Northwest and California.

 

Description:(Fireweed) Grows up to 8 feet high, Flowers are 4 petaled, bright and commonly magenta, but sometimes purple or white.  Lower flowers mature earlier and from long pods after blooming.  Leaves are long and narrow with smooth edges, and pale underneath.  When mature the pods split open and release a wooly fluff that carries the seed.

(River Beauty) Grows from 4-16 inches in height.  Flowers are larger and more colorful than Fireweed.  Leaves are long narrow and grayish green in color.  Stems are sometimes commonly branched.


Edible Uses:

 

Early Spring: Shoots

Late Spring: Leaves (best before flowering begins),

Summer: Buds and Flowers

Fall: “Down” from matured pods and the rootstalks

  • The Spring Fireweed young stalks are high in Vitamin C and A.  The stalks are edible raw, but can be steamed or stir fried.  The soil conditions where foraged will affect flavor and often it is found spring shoots can be mild to somewhat bitter depending on area foraged.  Bitter stalks can be pickled or blended with milder greens in pies or casseroles to control the bitterness.
  • Shoots can also be simmered in stews or prepared like asparagus.  One recommendation is to pack shoots in cooking oil and freeze them for winter use.  River Beauty shoots are said to be superior to fireweed for potherb us.
  •  Young Leaves of both species are good mixed with other greens in salads ro vegetable side dishes.  The buds (unopened) can be used in the same way.  Raw Roots are popular food with Northern Eskimo’s.
  • In the Summer stems can be split down the middle into halves and  pulled through teeth to extract the edible parts of the stem.  Fireweed leaf tea can be made into a pleasant drink, and is slightly sweet in flavor.  The laxative nature of the tea dictates that this be used in moderation.  Russian peasant call this tea “Kaporie”.  You can bend the tea with dried berries or mint leaves.

 

OTHER USES:

  • As stated above, the laxative nature of the tea can be used to relieve constipation, Herbal infusions are also recommended for spring tonics and to help settle upset stomachs.
  • A Herbal Decoction can be made by boiling the whole herb and has been used as an Anit-Spasmodic treatment for whooping cough and asthma.  Traditional use involves making the Herbal Decoction and sipping in wineglass amounts until spasms pass.
  • Fireweed leaves and flowers can be steeped in Oils and is said to be a good external treatment for piles.
  • Dry Powdered roots blended with Vaseline or other petroleum Jelly has been used to sooth infected insect bits, and abrasions.  The Fresh Roots are also said to draw out Boils

  • The wooly fluff from mature pods was used by Canadian explorers as a Tinder for starting fires
  • Common in Kamchatka (The large peninsula in Eastern Siberia Russia), Fireweed was made into an ale.   The Pith (The inner juicy ‘meat’) was boiled along with Cow Parsnip Stems, and Hallucinogenic Fly Agaric (Agaracus Muscarius) and this resulted in a “Stupefying Ale”
  • Natives of Puget sound wove fireweed down with wool of mountain goats to make blankets.
  • Fireweed Flowers were rubbed on mittens and rawhide to make them water resistant
  • Inner Pith was dried, powered and rubbed on hands and face in winter to prevent chapping of the skin
  • The String Fibers left in teeth after extracting pith was woven to create fish nets.

 

 


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Survival Foraging: Field Mint

FIELD MINT

Mentha arvensis

 

OTHER NAMES: Wild mint, pole mint, brook mint, indian mint, Canada mint

 

HABITAT: Can be found in fields, moist areas, banks of streams and lakes.  The Field Mint ranges from Central Alaska and the Yukon to California.

 

DESCRIPTION:  Can grow up to 24 inches, opposite leaves which usually have fine hairs.  Plants smells minty when bruised, square stems which are usually hairy.  Stem may be  simple or branched.  When flowering will have tight clusters of lilac like flowers growing where the leaves and stems intersect.

 

EDIBLE USES:

HARVEST CALENDAR:

Late Spring to Early Summer: The above ground portion.  Clip the mint to a height of 4-6 inches a few times during the season, this provides continuous supply of young, supple, tender growth.


The young mint leaves are a nutritious additive to summer salads and have high content of vitamins A, C and K as well as Iron, calcium and manganese.

Add to soups, omelettes or whatever you want to have a ‘minty’ fresh flavor.  Steam the mint with new potatoes, baby carrots or peas for a fresh flavor.  Mint Jelly is wonderful on poultry, lamb or pork as well as wild game that may have a “gamey taste”.

You can steep the leaves for a refreshing hot or iced tea, or you can place a fresh sprig of mint in beverages or meat dishes as a garnish.

You can also line cake tines with the mint leaves instead of grease, due to the oils in the plant, this works well with light cakes and adds a mint flavor to the final product.

 

MEDICINAL USES:

Mint is recommended as an appetite stimulant and digestive aid.  You can try sipping a small glass of mint flavored wine or tea after a big dinner to spur digestive juices to get to work.

Mint is also used for upset stomachs, nausea and morning sickness and mint-elder flower tea is recommended for crampy or delayed menstruation.

You can apply the mint as a herbal compress, and is said to relieve headaches and other pains.

Inhaling mint is a folk remedy substitute for smelling salts.

Simmer mint in a pan of water and inhale for blocked sinuses

Add leaves to herbal salves for itchy skin conditions.

Mint Essential oils can be diluted in a cup of water to relieve gas and mint juice can be used to sooth earaches.

 

OTHER USES:

Mint can be used for cosmetic uses as well.  Add to herbal baths to soothe and soften skin and to foot baths to sooth aching feet or calluses.

Mint is useful in facial steams and masks for dry skins.

Mint Vinegar, diluted with water is a good hair rinse for dandruff.

PURE mint oil can be added to shampoos, massage oils, herbal asalves, soaps as well as foods and liquors.  The oil can be made through distillation, but is very intensive as it takes 300 pounds of mint to yield on pound of oil.

 

RECIPE FOR MINT MASK FOR DRY SKIN:

1/4 cup fresh mint

1/2 avocado

2 tb wheat germ oil

2 tb liquid lecithin

1 dropper vitamin E

1 cup mint tea

 

Place all ingredients in a blender.  Smooth on clean face and throat area, leave on for 15 minutes and wash with mint tea.

 

 

CAUTION: Large amounts of mint should be avoided by pregnant women as it has been known to cause miscarriages

 

 

 

 

 

 


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Survival Foraging: Puffballs

PUFFBALLS

Lycoperdon Species

Calvatia Species

 

OTHER NAMES: Devils Snuffbox, Chicken of the Woods

 

HABITAT: Puffballs flourish in areas such as lawns, meadows, tundra and roadsides.  Puffballs can be found from Alaska to California, and many North American Hard and Softwood Forest’s. There was even a Calvatia species discovered in Brazil in 2008

 

DESCRIPTION: Puffballs vary in size from the size of marbles to basketballs.  THe Lycoperdon sp. are smaller, but more abundant.  Lycoperdon is round and white before the spores develop and turn brown as they begin to ‘fruit’ and are ready to release the spores.  Calvatia sp. can be larger such as the C. Gigantea specieas and can grow to 10 inches in diameter.  They have numerous ‘cracks’ that release the spores.  Calvatia sp. are round to pear shaped and lack a true stem, but some have a “stalk-like” base that varies from the minute to substantial.  The fruiting bodies of the Calvatia may be smooth or with wartlike growths.  When both species ‘fruit’, they release a cloud of spores when stepped on.

 

EDIBLE USES:

 

HARVESTING:

LATE SUMMER – EARLY FALL

Slice open EACH puffball in half before eating to make certain it is solid white throughout the mushroom

SLICED LYCOPERDON PERLATUM

 

SLICED CALVATIA CYATHIFORMIS


Large puffballs can be a very delicious if you slice them and cook them like eggplant Parmesan.  You can also try them filled with stuffing, wrapped in bacon and cooked in a covered pot.  The smaller puffballs can be sauteed in butter, garlic and soy sauce and served on toast points.

You can basically use these just like you would any mushrooms you buy in the store.   They can be added to sparser meals to help fill the belly and give the meal more variety.

This is an unverified source, but the nutritional content according to a study done in Turkey found that Lycoperdon perlatum contained

  • 42 g carbohydrates
  • 10.6 g Fat
  • 44.9 g Protein
  • 5.5 mg Iron
  • .6 mg Manganese
  • .5 g Zinc

 

MEDICINAL USES:

Puffballs have been traditionaly bound to wounds to stop bleeding, spores have been inhaled for a folk remedy for nosebleeds.

 

CAUTION

The spores have been known to cause allergic reactions in some people and severely irritate the bronchial passages, so caution must be used when considering traditional uses.

As with any foraging for new species be very careful in the collection.  For you first time always collect the “unknowns” and keep them in separate containers from the “known” edibles, so if they turn out to be inedible they don’t spoil the rest.  This is because Spores form one mushroom that may be toxic may spoil the rest if they come in contact.  a rule of thumb is to cut mushroom stems one inch form the ground to make sure they are free of dirt.

For positive identification make mushroom spore prints for future reference.  Discard the step and place the mushroom cap stem side down on paper, cover this with a glass bowl or large container and let it sit overnight.  The paper, if possible, should be half dark half-light so that the spores show up regardless of color.  Spores will form an identifying print, like a finger, with their color and shape, which will be the key identifiers.

Dont eat a large portion when consuming new wild mushrooms for the first time.  Eat no more than a tablespoon of the cooked fungus, wait 36 hours, and if you don’t get sick its ok.  if you do get sick or have an allergic reaction it will, or should be less, than if you ate a heaping portion, and this way you can get the learning curve without the death or severe illness! (this is why you should forage in your area now! not when things get bad and medical attention is less or non-existent).

As with all Foraging, consult your local knowledge base and BE CAREFUL!

 

 

 

 


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Survival Foraging: Club Moss

CLUB MOSS

Lycopodium Species

Other Names: Stiff Club Moss, Vegetable Sulfur, Wolfs Claw

Habitat: Coniferous woods, rocky place.  Found from Northern Alaska to the Yukon, California, Washington, Oregon

Description:Depending on species a pine tree like appearance and stiff stalks (consult local fauna information to make sure you have correct species for medicinal uses)

 

Edible Uses: None

NOTE OF CAUTION!!

Not all species of Club Moss can be used for these medicinal uses, make sure EXACT species are used and ALWAYS consult with your local fauna book.  The L. Selago species found in Alaska, Yukon and Oregon is a toxic species, while the L. annotinum that is found in Alaska, Yukon, B.C. and Oregon is not!

 

MEDICINAL USES:

 

HARVEST CALENDAR:

SUMMER: Spore capsules and evergreen branches.

Club moss can be harvested year round depending on snow covering.


The reproductive capsule on the tops of

L. Clavatum (Below)

as well as L. complanatum (Shown Below)

These two yield a yellow powder call “Vegetable Sulfur” or “Vegetable Brimstone” which can be sprinkled on the skin to treat

  • Sores
  • Ecsema
  • Herpes
  • Supperating skin irritations
  • Diaper rash (for its soothing and healing)

The powder is also very water resistant and if you coat your hand with it and submerge it in water you can almost stay completely dry!

The powder is also friction reducing and is used for the same things as other body powders, such as bed sores.

ANOTHER WARNING!

The powder is also highly flammable and was used for theatrical explosives and night photography (in the old days) so DONT LET IT GET NEAR FLAME

 

Other European Herbalists have recommended it for leg cramps, and it is to be stuffed in pillows to be used and as application for aching areas such as legs or feet.

 

The Recipe for “Dads Pillow” is as follows

  • 2 Cups dried club moss greens
  • 2 cups dried wormwood leaves and flowers
  • 1 cup dried pineapple weed flowers and greens
  • 1 old pillowcase

Place herbs in pillowcase, prop tired or cramped feet on pillow or stool, sit back and enjoy.  Elevate the feet on the pillow nightly for 30 minutes.

 

Dena’ina Natives say that resting your head on the pillow is a remedy for headaches, and vivid dreams have been reported.  The Dena’ina also use a tea made from the boiled plant for an eyewash.

 

L. Clavatum and L. Complanatum ONLY are a traditional internal remedy for cirrhosis of the Liver, urinary and reproductive disorders as well as gout and rheumatism.

One recommendation is to take 1 teaspoon chopped club moss infused in one cup of boiling water and drink before the morning meal.

Montagnais Natives used club moss with hemlock tree bark for fever reducing tea.

Potawatomi and Blackfoot Natives dusted wounds with powder and would inhale it for nosebleeds.

 

LAST WARNING!

Once again make sure you use proper identification!

L. Selago should NOT be used internally.  It contains an alkaloid that can cause mouth pain, diarrhea and vomitting.

CHECK CHECK CHECK!

 


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Product Review: MURS Radio/MAT Sensor

 

Rob over at Murs-Radio.com sent me The M538HT Radio and the MAT (MURS Alert Transmitter) Sensor to review and give away in this months Prepper Contest!

I have had a decent amount of experience with radios over the years while i was in the Marine Corps and Contracting, from PRC 119′s to Motorola XT 5000′s.  Back home I have a few different radios, mainly just the GMRS/FRS Motorola handhelds they sell as Sporting good shops.

The main thing that separates the MURS handhelds here and the Motorola’s I have at the house, and you probably do also, is the frequency that they run on a different Frequencies.

Most radios you buy run on the GMRS/FRS hybrid system.

Channels 1-7 are strictly GMRS but you dont need a license IF you are transmitting over 1/2 watt of power, 8-14 are strictly license free FRS (Family Radio Service)

With MURS radios, you get an altogether different frequency, So you have an added layer of security with your communications.

That is, if you have a Talkabout on Channel 1 and a MURS radio on Channel 1, You CANT hear each other, because its like trying to put your toyota key in the ford’s ignition, It just DUNT work!

MURS radios allow the use of external antennas for farther reach, and the antennas on the radios come off and you can plug a larger antenna into it.

MURS operates on VHF, which works better for outdoors and hilly terrain, while standard GMRS/FRS radios run on UHF which works better at penetrating building so you can talk inside to outside.

 

HERES MY VIDEO REVIEW, SHOWING YOU A FEW THINGS YOU CAN DO WITH THEM. FOR FULL SCREEN CLICK HERE

 

The MAT sensor is an AWESOME piece of gear for a homestead or property to have to keep 24/7 eyes on different places/avenues of approach on your property.

When the sensor is tripped it will send out a signal to your radios with a warning for 4 different sectors, you can program each sensor to send what Zone # you want.

The sensor’s can detect roughly up to 80 feet and with the standard antenna depending on vegetation and conditions get the alert from about 600 feet away. After the sensor is tripped, it resets after 30 seconds, so the same “thing” that tripped it the first time will only continue to if it stays in the area, which is nice, so your radio doesn’t continuously go off!

Basically you set up the transmitters in areas you want to have covered, and this can vary depending of course on your circumstances.

 


 

SCENARIO….

You have a transmitter to cover your driveway (ZONE 1), the path across the creek (ZONE 2), three covering the field behind the barn (ZONE 3) and another on the rear of the house (ZONE 4).

 

So if you have a group of hoodlums that drive up your driveway your MAT will send an alert to your radio “ALERT ZONE 1, ALERT ZONE 1″

So you shoot a warning shot, they dump out the truck and scatter.  A couple of them wind through the woods and come in through the field, now on those three sensors start going off “ALERT ZONE 3, ALERT ZONE 3″

You get the idea.

You can also just set them up in your garage, cabin, wherever.

As far as in a homesteading “wanting to know” environment, set them up in areas where most people would enter your property from, well worn trails, roads, etc.

In a SHTF things have gotten slightly mad max and desperate, you will want to CREATE avenues of approach to your property and employ this system and others to get the full use out of them.  By that i mean, you arent’ going to go all medieval and wall yourself off in an impregnable fortress. SO the best thing to do is to create obstacles and “Pain in the asses” so that people that are going to approach your homestead, home, property will naturally be funneled into certain areas, these areas can be monitored with the MAT sensor, and wallah, you know if something is on a well used trail southside of your property at 1 am, and not when its busting down your door!

 

MURS systems have decent range, but these ARE NOT going to be used in some Patriots the coming collapse Long range Reconnaissance Patrol (which is highly unlikely anyways). These radios can be upgraded with larger antennas and such, and the base station can be hooked to very large and powerful antennas for longer range, but for the base models, and small budget preppers out there, this is a GREAT radio for the homestead or retreat property.

 

Like i mentioned at the beginning, the MURS radio cannot be heard by anyone who is walking around with the Cabelas Motorola Talkabouts, so you have that added layer of security.  Dont get me wrong the Talkabouts are great radios i still kept mine, and they would be useful if anyone you know or wanted to contact had those as well. More is better folks, and redundant forms of comms are a must.

For the homesteader i already laid out a scenario for you, but for the suburban prepper, who is reading this going, great you can detect a deer or person crossing the creek near your house, i have a 1/2 acre fenced yard and a garage, what good is this for me?

Well you can set this puppy up in the the garden beds at the front and rear of your home as well as in the garage, so you can know if any a-holes are trying to break in, or if ANYTHING is in the area, being a fenced property, nothing GOOD should be in there at 2am right?  Its a nice system because you can just set it up, turn it on at night and have a base station next to your bed.  For the money a ADT system will cost you you can set this up and this MURS/MAT system can be used to communicate with each other and moved to a retreat property or bug out location whenever you need it to be, can your ADT do that?

 

I also think it would make a great “security” item if you have been having issues with pests or rabbits in your gardens out back as well!

I have a YOUTUBE REVIEW of the system, which shows some of the uses and how it can be employed.

MURS-RADIO.COM has a multitude of gear, its good and a good company to boot.

Head over there and help support those who support us!

 

 


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Survival Footwear: Moose Hock, Grass Socks and more

(NO ONE WANTS FROSTBITE!)

 

In a survival situation whether this is a crashed airplane, lost on hunt or a collapse scenario where normal items become scare, inexpensive or both knowing how to construct your own arctic survival footwear could be the difference between life and death, comfort or pure agony!

I was reading this old book called “The Arctic Survival Guide” written by Alan Innes-Taylor for the Scandinavian Airline System in 1957, it has alot of good info in it, and I believe most of it is the same info that is in some of the old US Air Force Arctic Survival Manuals from the same period.

MOOSE HOCK SHOES

One way to get a nice pair of shoes is to use a method of footwear as old as the caveman.

For this you can use the hock skin of caribou, moose, elk or any large game animal.

  • You will want to cut Areas A & C all the way around and deep.
  • Separate from the Leg and pull it off over the hoof, you now basically have a L shaped piece of hide.
  • In a less immediate survival situation you could clean and tan the hide, for long term use.  In a survival situation, try to scrap the loose bits of meat off as best you can, but this is about survival and getting home, so a little left on there is ok, just not optimal.
  • At part C (the bottom end) sew that up with whatever you have (This is why a paracord belt would be great! the fibers from a piece of paracord would work perfect!)
  • Then poke holes with the bottle opener/leather punch (if you have  a Leatherman) or just holes from a knife will work fine to create holes for laces.
  • Then take the laces from the destroyed boots if possible or paracord (see another use, Im not kidding about how useful that stuff is buy SPOOLS!)

You know have a decent footwear.  Dont discard this as “gross” or to “primitive living”, try walking on a nice day through the woods with just socks, now imagine that in Arctic, cold weather survival situation!

Since the Moose provides you with 4 hocks, you can make two pairs of these shoes, and be able to change them out whenever you need to, definitely take advantage of the material to make a second pair.

Note:  In the Book “ARTIC MANUAL” which was written by  Vilhjalmur Stefansson for the U.S. Army Air Corps in 1944,  is an excellent resource for many different arctic survival needs, recommends caribou for homestead/primitive living boots.

“The sole, shoepac type as always, is of August or September bull Caribou, and form the back skin.  October hides are sometimes used but as said, the skins get thinner as the season advances…August or early September bootsole is so durable that on snow exclusively, or on snow and grassland, one pair of soles will carry you a thousand miles at least.”

Pretty neat stuff right?

Your Moose hock shoes will work fine, but what they lack is insulation, this leads me to the next thing to consider…


 

GRASS LINING/INSOLES

Simple grass has been used by northern natives and hard living European hunters/trappers, etc for a long time to help augment the insulating factor of your socks, or to preserve your socks as well.

The biggest killer in a arctic environment is not the cold as much as it is inaction or getting wet.

When you walk around for awhile you start to perspire (sweat) For a quick walk in the woods, this is ok, but in a true survival situation you will want to slow your pace enough to keep you warm and conserve energy as well as to control your perspiration.  If you have good insulating boots and socks your feet will perspire, making your socks wet and when you stop that wetness will turn ice cold.

Grass insoles are good for three things

  • Good dry grass will absorb the perspiration and your socks will be dryer
  • The Grass will add another layer of insulation to keep your feet warm (as you get colder your body will make sure the core stays warm and your extremities such as your hands and feet will get much cooler)
  • The grass can provide more cushion to your feet AND insulation if you are wearing improvised footwear like the moose hock shoes mentioned above.

How to make the insoles

  • You will want to take ANY tall grass that grows throughout the north.  Grasp large handful in both hands (the guide mentions a “sheaf” of grass, basically enough so both your hands, on on top of each other, arent touching) twist it in opposite directions.  take that bundle and fluff it up into oblong shapes so it is “fluffed up” like a nest (this is so there is air insulation in between the grass).
  • Make sure this oblong shape is “foot like” but wider than your actual foot and a inch thick, carefull put that into your shoe/boot.

GRASS LINING

If you have socks (hopefully a couple) use this to further your insulation.

  • Put your first sock on
  • Using the same method for the insoles put that in your second larger sock and roll it down so it is very short
  • Carefully put your foot in, and try to have overlap over the edges onto the top of your foot with grass.
  • Pack loose grass around the open space all the way up the sock, rolling it up as you go.

Now the picture shows parachute fabric as the outer layer, this is a military manual and is for pilots that have to bail out of their aircraft, so they would have this available.  This same method would work perfectly with the moose hock shoe, depending on the size of the moose and the room you have inside.

At night or long periods of rest take these out and dry them.  Discard them if possible in place of new grass if you can find it.

If you cant find dry grass, make a wooden “grate” and attempt to dry the grass on that, you could take rocks and put them in the fire to warm them and then place them under the grate to dry the grass or just set them near enough to dry but dont let them catch fire of course!

 

HUDSON BAY DUFFLE

Another form of insulation for boots or improvised footwear could be the “Hudson Bay Duffle”

The Hudson Bay Company had a trade with the Natives for insulated socks.  They would make triangular pieces of fabric from soft blankets and sell them for use inside of Moccasins.

All you need is some piece of cloth cut into a triangle as seen in the photo above

  • Edge 1 would go over the top of the foot
  • Edge 2 and 3 would be wrapped OVER the instep

The “completed” Duffle would look like the foot inside the photo.

This would then be eased into the moccasin and firmly lashed. DONE

This has a few advantages over socks

  1. Depending on material it could be washed and dried quickly
  2. Foot can be placed differently to help even out wear, and avoid holes that may form in the heel
  3. It can be made from any soft material, from jackets, to multiple shirts, blankets, etc.

You can definitely use this if you have an extra blanket in your pack that you can cut a piece from, then use Grass as an insole and then put inside the Moose Hock shoe.

 

I would definitely try to get your hands on these books if possible, check out local libraries or see if libraries in other areas would loan them to yours so you can check them out.  The links I provided are to the Amazon listings (and as my disclaimer says i get a small percentage of the sale if you buy them), but these are out of print and the links may no longer be working if you look at this weeks, months or years down the road.

 

 

 


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Survival Foraging: Goldenrod

GOLDENROD

Solidago species

Other Names: Woundwort, Blue mountain tea, Aaron’s rod

 

Habitat: Species of this plant can be found from Alaska to Canada to California.  They can be found in various areas from meadows to open woods to rocky soils.

 

Description:The Canadensis variety (Canadian Goldenrod) can reach heights from 1-5 feet with yellow flower clusters 3-5 inches across.

 

Edible Uses:  Leaves, Flowers and Seeds can be eaten

Spring:Leaves

Summer:Leaves and Flowers

Late Summer: Seeds


Golden rod is a potherb, and can be added to soups and stews, to thicken soups, seeds can be added. Without adding in the medicinal effects a pleasant tea can be made from steeping the flowers and/or leaves and sweeten it with a bit of honey.  Blossoms can be added to pancakes and fritter as well as bread and biscuit doughs.

 

Other Uses: Powdered leaves can be sprinkled on shaving cuts as a styptic agent.  For insect bites and scrapes, apply fresh (crushed or chewed) leaves to relieve the pain or bothersome itch.  To make an antiseptic wound wash, strain goldenrod tea and splash the area with it.  You can add leaves to Herbal Salves for saddle sores or slight abrasions.  Goldenrod is also known for its use for kidneys and is safe for young children, and you can make herbal tinctures from the fresh blossoms to preserve these qualities for later use.

It has been said to use 1 teaspoon of dry leaves with one tablespoon of honey 3 times a day for ulcers and Herbal tea made from Goldenrod has a balanced content of minerals and is used for tuberculosis patients.  Facial steams and herbal baths can be made from the blossoms.

During the Crusades, Goldenrod was carried into battles as a wound dressing, and the name ‘woundwort’ stuck!

Europeans have long used the goldenrod as a border plant for their gardens and fields.

 


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Survival Foraging: Beach Greens

Beach Greens

Honckenya peploides, Arenaria peploides

Other Names: Sea Chickweed, Seabeach sandwort, Sea purslane

 

Habitat:  Common along the coasts from The extreme northern Arctic waters to the Aleutian chain and south to the Oregon Coast.  On the East Coast it is found in Arctic Canada South to Virginia.

 

Description: Found in patches or bunches, 2-12 inches in height, small white flowers.

 

Edible Uses: Beach Greens are sometimes refered to as “Scurvy Grass” due to its high Vitamin C content and was eaten by sailors to ward off Scurvy.

Late Spring: Leaves and Shoots

Summer: Leaves (can be gathered until August)

Late Summer: Seeds

The plant thrives on sandy beaches, so you must clean well to remove gritty sand and particles (unless you need the roughage!).  You can add the young shoots and leaves to tossed salads or steam them for a short time (2-3 minutes) and then mix with garlic and butter.  You can use them in Asian stir-fry dishes or simmer them in soups as well as pickle them! They are a wonderful all around useful plant if you are near the coast.  Near Kotzebue Natives will ferment the cooked greens and add berries to the mixture, while others blend the greens and cabbage when making sauerkraut.

If you plan ahead you can collect the new spring greens, blanch for 1 minute and then freeze them, for year round use as well as a vitamin A and C supplement (They are high in both).  The seeds can be collected (however they are small and it is very time-consuming) and you can add them as garnish or to flour to extend your supplies.

 

 


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The Berkey Light Water Filter: The Best filtration money can buy

I received my Berkey Light Water Filter and immediately put it together, which i showed in my Youtube Review.

It is simple and easy to do, which is saying alot for me! I spent over an hour trying to put together a high chair, so anyone normal shouldn’t have any problem.

 

Out of the Box: I got two filters, the containers and the base (There is an optional LED base, that gives it a nice ambiance, but i didnt need it)

I’ve talked about the Berkey’s before and mentioned them on my page for water preps, and I still hold that it is the best water filter on the market.

The Berkey system canremove viruses, pathogenic bacteria, cysts, parasites and extract chemicals, herbicides, pesticides, organic solvents, VOC’s (volatile chemicals), detergents, cloudiness, sediment, foul tastes and odor.

The Full list is at the end of the post, read it!

Now you may be saying “But I have a Brita filter whats the difference?”

Big!

Brita and pur can get out lead and mercury and cysts, but they will not be able to filter out, iron, copper, aluminum, parasites, e coli, arsenic, atrazine, etc.

Plus every six months you are replacing your Brita Filters, while Berkey Filters last A LONG TIME! Based on usage of 18 gallons of water a week you will spend 17 dollars a year on the Berkey Filter while your Pur and Brita will cost you over 194$ Thats nearly the cost of one Berkey!  The five year cost of a Brita is around $978 while a Berkey will run you only the original investment of around $200+

The Berkey’s filters will last around 3,000 gallons per filter, which most sytems come with 2 filters and the ability to put in from 4-8 depending on the system.  The standard Big Berkey (Or Berkey Light as i have now!) has the ability to have four filters which would treat over 12,000 gallons of water!

For Preppers The Berkey is also superior in its ability to take nasty pond water and throw it in there and it will filter out all the sediment, silt and nasty stuff, so you can use this even if your Bug out is a car near an old fish pond!

The other major concern for people, especially preppers is the use of flouride and chlorine in city and municipal water systems.  Chlorine can be filtered out with the standard filters but flouride is a much more difficult substance to get out of your water.  Berkey’s have the optional PF-2 Filter which reduces Fluoride along with Arsenic down to safe levels (95-99.75%).

 

The End Result is that I LOVE THE BERKEY!  I love the look of the stainless steel Big Berkey’s or Imperial Berkey’s but the Berkey light fits my home better (The difference is storage capacity not capability)

I am a dealer of Berkeys so visit our BERKEY WATER FILTER page  If you wish to purchase one and I will give the best deal I am able to.

That being said Members of the Great Northern Prepper will receive a SIGNIFICANT discount on their purchases, I am not allowed to say what they would pay for it or how much due to restrictions from the manufacture (You wont find a better deal anywhere), but email me, become a member and join the forum and you will have access to the price list.

 ORDER NOW

 

WHAT THE BERKEY FILTERS OUT!

 

PATHOGENIC BACTERIA CYSTS AND PARASITES
removal to non-detectable levels:
E. coli – Klebsiella – Pseudomonas Aeruginosa – Giardia – Cryptosporidium

TRIHALOMETHANES
removed to below detectable limits:
Health effects: muscle & nervous system disorders, cancer
Bromodichloromethane – Bromoform – Chloroform – Dibromochloromethane

RADIOLOGICALS
removed to below detectable limits:
Radon 222

INORGANIC MINERALS
removed to below detectable limits:

Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs)
Removed to below detectable limits
Alachlor
Atrazine
Benzene
CarbofuranCarbon Tetrachloride
Chlorine
Chlorobenzene
Chloroform
2,4-D
DBCP
p-Dichlorobenzene
o-Dichlorobenzene
1, 1-Dichloroethane
1, 2-Dichloroethane
1, 1-Dichloroethylene
cis-1, 2-Dichloroethylene
Trans-1,2-Dichloroethylene
1, 2-Dichloropropane
cis-l,3-Dichloropropylene
Dinoseb
Endrin
Ethylbenzene
Ethylene Dibromide (EDB)
Heptachlor
Heptachlor Epoxide
Hexachlorobutodiene
Hexachlorocyclopentadiene
Lindane, Methoxychlor
MTBE
Pentachlorophenol
Simazine
Styrene
1,1,2,2-Tetrachloroethane
Tetrachloroethylene
Toluene
2,4,5-TP (Silvex)
1,2,4-trichlorobenzene
1,1,1-trichloroethane
1,1,2-trichloroethane
Trichloroethylene
o-Xylene
m-Xylene
p-Xylene

HEAVY METALS REDUCED BY UP TO 95%

LEAD-Kidney and Nervous system Damage

MERCURY-Kidney and Nervous system disorders

ALUMINUM-Respiratory, nervous system disorders

CADMIUM- Kidney damage

CHROMIUM- Liver, Kidney, circulatory system

COPPER- Gastro ontoric diseases

 

Also Removes or Reduces- Nitrates, Nitrites, Rust, Silt and Sediment


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